October 5, 2022
Drivers in a volunteer convoy gas their automobile on the street in Ukraine’s Khmelnisky area.

Drivers in a volunteer convoy gas their automobile on the street in Ukraine’s Khmelnisky area. The group had set out from Lviv in western Ukraine to deliver provides to a metropolis close to the capital, Kyiv, which has been the goal of heavy Russian bombardment since Feb. 24.Pictures by Anton Skyba/The Globe and Mail

Oleksander Sydielnikov surveyed the motley assortment of automobiles, pickup vehicles and minivans gathered Sunday at a fuel station close to Lviv, in western Ukraine, with a mix of delight and apprehension.

With their nation at conflict, and folks trapped in cities underneath assault, this group of strangers was going to do one thing about it.

The plan was easy, though clearly harmful: The 12 autos, plus two extra they’d meet up with alongside the way in which, had been full of meals, water, diapers, toys and as many badly wanted medical provides, together with insulin, because the volunteers might discover. Quickly, the automobiles would kind a line and drive towards the partly besieged capital, Kyiv, 500 kilometres to the east.

Step 1 could be dropping off all of the bins of their automobiles in Fastiv, a small metropolis close to Kyiv that’s changing into a hub for folks fleeing the capital, however the place retailer cabinets at the moment are fully naked.

On the way in which again to the relative security of Lviv, they’d take all the ladies and kids they might.

“For me, it’s like Dunkirk. It’s very related. Bear in mind how Churchill stated whoever has a ship, even civilians, has to go to Dunkirk and save lives? It’s not the identical, nevertheless it’s related. We’re self-organized individuals who solely wish to assist ladies and kids escape,” Mr. Sydielnikov stated. “The Russians are attempting to dam that space, to occupy Fastiv and block the one method out of Kyiv.”


As they pulled onto the freeway shortly after daybreak, Mr. Sydielnikov’s crimson Kia was adopted by a handful of sedans and station wagons, every filled with items rapidly donated by folks in western Ukraine, some bought with cash despatched from overseas. One of many sedans had Czech licence plates.

A black Ford pickup with crimson crosses taped to its sides joined the convoy, carrying dozens of bottles of water, plus just a few instances of Coca-Cola. So did a white truck coated with ads for a house renovation firm.

Trailing the convoy was The Globe and Mail’s group in Ukraine, driving a just lately bought 2004 Land Rover, clearly marked “Press.”

“None of us knew one another earlier than right this moment,” stated Mr. Sydielnikov, a 30-year-old authorized reform skilled. The small flotilla had assembled after responding to a name for volunteers posted three days earlier on Telegram, a social-media app. As he spoke, a Ukrainian army helicopter flew low overhead.

Mike Salo, left, stands with drivers on the convoy to Fastiv.

The captains of the opposite vessels becoming a member of this overland Dunkirk stated they had been doing so out of a want to assist their fellow Ukrainians.

“I’m not a army man. I might be ineffective as a result of I’ve by no means held a gun in my fingers, so I’m attempting to do what I can right here,” stated Mike Salo, a 41-year-old who earlier than the conflict was the chief monetary officer of a blockchain firm.

He stated he was nervous about driving so near Kyiv whereas the Russian military was attempting to encompass the town. However he was extra anxious about his brother and his household, who had been trapped incommunicado in Bucha, a suburb north of the capital that has been battered by a number of the worst combating of the conflict.

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There was a sure guilt, Mr. Salo stated, that got here with sitting in Lviv – which has up to now been spared the bombings and cruise missile strikes which have hit different main cities – whereas the remainder of the nation was on fireplace. Financial institution machines, grocery shops and eating places all nonetheless functioned in Lviv, though nothing felt regular in a metropolis of 700,000 taking part in host to tens of hundreds of people that have fled their properties in different elements of Ukraine.

Inna Harko, a 25-year-old drone salesperson, had a really private motive for becoming a member of her boyfriend, Bohdan Klisch, on the drive from Lviv. She stated a detailed buddy had been trapped in Fastiv for the reason that begin of the conflict.

“I actually wish to deliver her to Lviv. She’s alone there and he or she doesn’t have anybody to assist her.”

At prime, police cease autos on the southern freeway to Kyiv. In close by Fastiv, backside, some doorways are marked with a Z, a logo that is come to be related to the Russian invaders.

We headed east by a dense community of cinderblock and sandbag checkpoints alongside the freeway, rapidly constructed fortifications that had been greater and thicker than they had been only a few days earlier. Tank traps sat by the roadside, able to be pulled onto the freeway ought to the Russian military method Lviv.

Later, we sped by a bunch of Ukrainian T-72 tanks that had been being transported on vehicles towards the entrance line, additional east.

There have been relics of earlier conflicts, too. Close to Lviv, we handed a Chilly Conflict jamming station that the Soviet Union used to attempt to block the transmissions of the U.S. authorities’s Radio Free Europe.

Driving east was straightforward. Only a few folks, moreover our mini-Dunkirk flotilla, had been deliberately heading towards the combating.

The street west was clogged with site visitors. Vehicles, buses marked with the signal “kids” and emergency autos all idled in site visitors jams a number of kilometres lengthy.

Every driver was stopped and briefly interrogated by suspicious Ukrainian reservists on the checkpoint to at least one village, then stopped once more on the subsequent settlement and requested the identical issues.

Gasoline stations had change into particularly tense. With gas rationed to twenty litres for each cease – and the stations providing what is typically the primary scorching meals refugees have seen in days – lengthy queues snaked from each pump, and tempers rose because the overwhelmed attendants struggled to maintain up with who ought to be paying for what.

As we drove, we acquired grim information from the street forward. Shells fired by Russian tanks had reportedly hit a faculty and residential buildings in Buzova, a suburb west of Kyiv. Quickly we acquired pictures confirming it. “That’s my house,” our driver, Serhiy, stated after seeing a picture of a modest home that he stated had taken him 10 years to construct. “That was my house.”

Air raid sirens blared as we stopped for gas in Khmelnitsky, one of many few huge cities on our route. However whereas the warning would ship folks scrambling for shelter within the first days of the conflict, many Ukrainians now barely lookup once they hear the high-pitched wail.

The fuel station the place we had been hoping to refuel out of the blue closed due to the alarm, however alert drivers observed the station on the alternative facet of the freeway had remained open – and there was nobody on the pumps. Regardless of the sirens, we sped throughout and acquired as a lot fuel as was permitted.

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In Khmelnitsky, the convoy grew. The 2 new drivers had a 17-seat Mercedes minibus and a Volkswagen van. Mr. Sydielnikov was notably thrilled by the looks of the minibus. “Now we are able to carry much more folks.”

A volunteer’s pickup truck is loaded with provides; drivers cease in Makhnivka to examine a leak.

As we approached Fastiv, phrase started to unfold.

A colleague of Serhiy’s, Olena Kanchukivska, referred to as as we crossed into Vinnytsia, the subsequent area over from Kyiv oblast. “Serhiy, is it true?” she requested, hope breaking by the nervousness in her voice. “Sure, Olena, it’s true. If you may make it to Fastiv, we now have area for you and your baby. We’ll deliver you to Lviv.”

“Thanks, thanks” was Ms. Kanchukivska’s solely reply earlier than hanging up. She and Serhiy labored collectively on the Ukrainian department of Mary Kay Cosmetics earlier than the conflict.

It was changing into obvious that moving into Fastiv could be simpler than getting out. The four-lane M-12 freeway connecting Khmelnitsky to Vinnytsia, supposed to be two lanes in every route, regularly overflowed its banks, changing into 4 lanes of automobiles and vehicles heading west whereas autos heading east had been pressured to hug the dust shoulder on their facet of the street.

One other newsflash got here up on my cellphone as we bought a quick second of 4G cell reception. Greater than 1.5 million Ukrainians had crossed into different European nations, Agence France-Presse was reporting. Staring on the clogged M-12, it was clear that quantity would proceed to develop. (By Monday afternoon, it had reached 1.7 million.)

On the sting of Vinnytsia, we noticed a plume of darkish smoke rising on the horizon to the fitting. The native airport had been hit by eight rockets only a few hours earlier. We might study later that 9 folks had died within the assault.

“We’ll rebuild it,” Mr. Sydielnikov stated after I confirmed him a video of what had occurred. He was born the month after Ukraine declared its independence in 1991 and has already seen his folks stand up twice in revolutions towards Moscow’s meddling. “After our victory, we’ll rebuild all of it.”

Exhausted convoy members get some meals and relaxation in Fastiv; a volunteer masses items right into a warehouse.

There was solely time for just a few fast handshakes after the convoy arrived in Fastiv Sunday night time and drove straight to the town’s fundamental market constructing. It was already after the native 8 p.m. curfew, so the bins of meals and different provides had been rapidly unloaded by an meeting line of women and men.

An air raid siren quickly reminded everybody of the rationale for the haste. It was time to seek out shelter.

Our haven for the night was the town’s Roman Catholic church. The drivers of the 14 autos, plus The Globe, had been hustled into the 110-year-old Exaltation of the Holy Cross.

We got bowls of borscht, cabbage rolls and pierogis by church employees, then assigned mattresses on the ground of the close by college and neighborhood centre.

The journey was half over. It had taken 14 hours to drive from Lviv, and the convoy had spent a lot of that point ready on the myriad checkpoints alongside the way in which. Within the morning, the autos would flip round and return, this time stuffed with folks fleeing the mayhem unleashed by Russian President Vladimir Putin.

There could be room for 70 evacuees, Mr. Sydielnikov calculated. Ladies and kids solely.

Ukrainians wait by the Catholic church in Fastiv, hoping for a journey to security within the west.

An evening in Fastiv, simply 75 kilometres southwest of Kyiv, is an evening of sirens, thuds and rumours. Though the town wasn’t hit throughout our keep, one thing hit the bottom onerous sufficient and close to sufficient at about 2 a.m. that it set off automotive alarms within the church parking zone. Within the room locally centre the place the kids had been sleeping, somebody turned on some cheerful music to drown out the sounds of conflict.

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Monday morning dawned with hope. Rev. Mykhailo Romaniv got here into the breakfast room and shook every driver’s hand. “Thanks,” he stated to every one, including a quick blessing for the drive again to Lviv.

Father Mykhailo had the duty of deciding who among the many crowd gathered exterior the church would make the journey west. One after the other he pointed older ladies and younger moms clutching kids, together with two on dialysis machines, towards the autos they’d journey in. Talking to the group, he warned them that the street forward – which for many of them lies through Poland – could be onerous.

“It’s best to rely solely on yourselves. You’ll want to ask questions and maintain your individual points and circumstances,” he stated, as some within the crowd nodded and others regarded on with tears of their eyes. “No one is aware of how a lot time you’ll spend on the border, so be affected person, be robust and plan your sources. It would take just a few days to cross.”

Nastya Zubotenko was a kind of bidding farewell to Fastiv. The 20-year-old and her four-month-old son, Maxim, might not stay within the metropolis, particularly after the explosions that they had heard Sunday night time.

“It’s scary,” Ms. Zubotenko stated, even for little Maxim. “He feels that I’m anxious, so it’s making him anxious.”

Olena Kanchukivska was one of many evacuees from Fastiv.

Serhiy’s buddy, Ms. Kanchukivska, was additionally able to go together with her 11-year-old daughter, Veronika, after a terrifying week residing too near the persevering with battle for the close by Vasylkiv airport. “I don’t know what the longer term will likely be,” the 46-year-old stated throughout a roadside break on the way in which to Lviv. “However I feel we will likely be happier now.”

Others, together with Ms. Harko’s buddy, determined to remain – it doesn’t matter what the longer term would deliver.

And for some, the choice to stay in Fastiv was each a shrug of resignation and an act of defiance. “We’re not going wherever. We’ll keep right here till victory,” stated Luda, a 75-year-old pensioner who was ready exterior the neighborhood centre to obtain a number of the donated items the convoy had delivered the night time earlier than. 4 of her pals, all senior residents, chimed in. “If we go away, we’ll haven’t any pensions, no work,” Luda continued. “We’ll keep and dwell the place we had been born.”

Watching the little convoy of hope making ready to depart, Father Mykhailo predicted way more folks would quickly movement west through Fastiv to Lviv and factors farther west because the merciless conflict raged on.

“Folks from Volnovakha, Kharkiv and Mariupol are transferring right here,” he stated. In these hard-hit cities, tons of of kilometres east of Kyiv, the extraordinary combating has up to now made all three troublesome to evacuate. “There will likely be people who find themselves positively struggling. People who find themselves afraid. Individuals who have misplaced their properties and every thing they’ve.”

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