October 6, 2022
Burrata sott’olio at Trullo restaurant in Calgary on March 3.TODD KOROL/Todd Korol/The Globe and Mail

Burrata sott’olio at Trullo restaurant in Calgary on March 3.TODD KOROL/Todd Korol/The Globe and Mail

Trullo Trattoria

Location: 107-2515 90 Ave. SW, Calgary

Cellphone: 403-281-1414

Web site: trullotrattoria.com

Worth: $11-$43.

Delicacies: Modern Italian.

Environment: Elegant and welcoming.

Greatest bets: Maltagliati, wild boar pizette, bianco (cocktail), tiramisu.

Vegetarian pleasant? Sure.

Further data: Open Tuesday to Saturday for lunch and dinner.

After dwelling in central Calgary for almost all of my grownup life, I bit the bullet and receded (considerably) into the suburban outer ring of town. There are such a lot of issues I do take pleasure in about being a bit additional out from the Calgary core, similar to having a home with an honest yard, avenue parking with no passes required (or deadlines) and the overall calmness an older neighbourhood can supply. The dearth of dynamic impartial eating places, although, is one thing I don’t take pleasure in within the least.

It’s with this mentality that I whole-heartedly respect the cleverly named group that’s Sub/city Hospitality. After opening the French bistro idea Purlieu within the Oakridge neighbourhood in 2019 to a lot reward, the house owners expanded in 2021 with Trullo Trattoria.

Positioned a two-minute drive from Purlieu, the modern Italian eatery is nestled right into a strip mall on the tail finish of 90 Ave. SW. At first look, Trullo is kind of hanging. Even its exterior, with proudly backlit capital lettering, makes an affect as you method it. This isn’t your “common” neighbourhood restaurant, it appears to scream, or not less than it does in my thoughts.

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Inside, issues really feel thoughtfully designed and welcoming. There’s heat wicker lighting fixtures, tan leather-based cubicles and gray felt-covered banquettes. A muted green-and-white palm-patterned wallpaper graces parts of the restaurant’s dividing wall that separates a barely extra quiet principal eating part from the entryway and bar space.

Trullo Trattoria’s inside is elegant and welcoming.TODD KOROL/Todd Korol/The Globe and Mail

The place Trullo wins factors instantly is with its cocktail choices. There’s loads of Italian-leaning choices to select from along with different classics similar to previous fashioneds and boulevardiers. A choice of Negronis all pack an expectedly nice punch, however a standout is the bianco – a considerably lesser recognized “white” Negroni made with Cocchi Americano and Maraschino Originale in lieu of Campari, in addition to vermouth and gin.

Meals-wise, the menu of govt chef Chris Barton is peppered with hits and misses. The baccala, a salt cod and potato combination, comes peculiarly plated, spooned into three small piles topped with broccolini and minced preserved lemon, separated by focaccia crostini standing on finish.

Preserved lemon is a tough merchandise to work with; use a bit an excessive amount of and it overpowers all the things. Sadly, that’s what occurred right here.

One of many burrata variations (the sott’olio), served with pickled eggplant, artichokes and roasted pink bell pepper in olive oil, fares a bit higher. It’s onerous to not take pleasure in burrata, particularly when served with acidity accoutrements, however the identical ever-crisp focaccia crostinis seem alongside it, leaving us to want for one thing with a bit extra chew.

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Pasta needs to be the top of most Italian restaurant menus and the chef’s choices do an honest job of hitting the spot, although many will not be made in-house. The mezze rigatoni boasts a scrumptious veal bolognese with a pleasant trace of nutmeg, topped with grated parmesan. It’s an ideal plate of pasta on a cold evening as winter temperatures proceed to linger into March.

The maltagliati, which is made in-house, is much more comforting, studded with a scrumptious lamb ragu and mushrooms together with sage and walnuts for a little bit added texture. Undoubtedly order this dish.

One other hit is the wild boar pizette. Calgary’s pizza choices have elevated tenfold all through the pandemic, so it’s onerous to chunk right into a new-to-me crust and really feel satiated, however this crunchy-on-the-outside-chewy-on-the-inside dough does simply that. Pear slices, punchy fennel seeds, floor boar and fior di latte cheese make for a wonderfully balanced foursome on high.

Trullo’s wild boar pizette makes for a wonderfully balanced foursome.TODD KOROL/Todd Korol/The Globe and Mail

Trullo’s tiramusu has some sudden bitterness, however nothing to complain about.TODD KOROL/Todd Korol/The Globe and Mail

We shut issues out with a tiramisu verrine, layered, naturally, with house-made coffee-soaked ladyfingers and whipped mascarpone cream. It’s a bit heavy-handed with the cocoa-nib topping that results in some sudden bitterness in some spoonfuls, however no huge qualms right here.

As an apart: It feels ill-fated to have drafted this evaluation shortly after eating at Whistler’s Il Caminetto. Eating at a unprecedented Italian restaurant a number of nights after eating for a second time at Trullo makes it troublesome to not examine the 2. Generally known as the most effective Italian eating places in British Columbia, if not all of Western Canada, and with a menu chock-full of house-made pastas and refined takes on classics similar to carpaccio, Il Caminetto is a spot that helps set the bar for modern Italian.

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It’s a bar that Trullo hasn’t fairly reached, however so far as Italian choices go in south Calgary, it’s a small win having this eatery in Oakridge.

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